By Wandernests Dispatch – Flavor Nest I 26 June, 2025
Pic sourced from http://www.guide.michelin.com
Tucked away on Frith Street in the beating heart of Soho, Hoppers is one of those places that’s earned cult status. And deservedly so. Inspired by the Tamil eateries of Sri Lanka and South India, Hoppers blends street food soul with London polish. The original branch opened in 2015 and has since become a must-visit for anyone chasing bold flavour, heritage-rich dishes, and a vibrant night out.
Earlier this month, we finally made our way to Hoppers Soho for a long-postponed dinner. What followed was an explosion of spice, tang, crunch, and soul-soothing comfort – one of those meals that lingers in your memory (and your Instagram camera roll).
First Bites: Street Snacks with Swagger
We started with a selection of short eats, the Sri Lankan equivalent of tapas. Each one came with its own hit of nostalgia, theatre, and heat.
Pic from http://www.guide.michelin.com
The Mutton Rolls + Chilli Ketchup, golden cigar-shaped pastries filled with tender spiced lamb, were the first to vanish. Crisp on the outside, comforting within, and brought to life with a smear of chilli ketchup – sweet, sharp, and just the right kind of fiery. So much so, we devoured them in an order placed on repeat!
Next came the Yoghurt Vadai, a lentil doughnut soaked in cool, spiced yoghurt and topped with crunchy sev and curry leaf oil. It was the kind of dish that danced between soft and crispy, tangy and soothing.
But the real showstopper? The Green Peppercorn Chicken, slicked in a piquant, fragrant marinade, with heat that built slowly. One that left us reaching for our lassis and their house special a mango gimlet. Each sip a soothing balm between bites.
Hoppers – From Colombo to Soho
The genius behind Hoppers is Karan Gokani, who – together with the team at JKS Restaurants – wanted to bring the flavours of Sri Lanka to London’s streets. Drawing inspiration from Tamil heritage, toddy shops, and the roadside eateries of Colombo, Hoppers manages to strike a rare balance: traditional yet trend-forward, fiery yet refined.
Pic from http://www.guide.michelin.com
And the Soho branch, being the original, still has that buzzy, slightly rebellious charm. It’s cosy, noisy in the best way, and smells of roasting spices and fresh coconut from the minute you step in. You don’t just eat here – you feel transported.
Hoppers and Curries: A Love Letter to the South
If the starters were fireworks, the mains were a warm embrace.
We ordered two curries: the Kerala Fish Kari and the Jaggery Lamb Kari. The fish curry was coconutty and light, with flaky fish swimming in a gently spiced sauce fragrant with curry leaves and mustard seeds. The lamb curry, by contrast, was sticky and deep – a slow-cooked dream made slightly sweet by the jaggery and smoky from its long simmer.
To mop it all up, we ordered a selection of Hoppers, the signature bowl-shaped fermented rice pancakes, and a soft, layered roti – both perfect for scooping up every last drop of those deeply flavoured curries.
Mango Gimlet: A Cocktail with Carnivale Spirit
Pic from www.guide.michelin.com
A quick note on drinks. While the lassis soothed the spice, the Mango Gimlet stole the spotlight. Zingy, zesty and tropical, it paired surprisingly well with the peppercorn chicken and lamb kari, its citrus edge cutting through the richness.
🥥 Got a Hoppers ritual or a dish that lights up your tastebuds?
We’d love to hear about your fiery favourites – from your first flaky mutton roll to that perfect hopper-and-kari combo. Was it the mango gimlet that stole the show, or a memory tied to spice and conversation in Soho? Drop us a note at editor@wandernests.com or share your stories in the comments. Let’s swap memories over sambol.
Plan Your Visit to Hoppers, Soho
Pic courtesy http://www.guide.michelin.com
📍 Address:
Hoppers Soho, 49 Frith Street, Soho, London W1D 4SG
View on Google Maps
🚇 Nearest Tube Station:
Tottenham Court Road (5-minute walk)
🌐 Website & Reservations:
https://www.hopperslondon.com/
Reservations recommended via the website or Resy.
🔝 Top Tip:
Order a mix of hoppers and rotis – you’ll need them for the curry. And don’t skip the short eats; they’re small but mighty.
📣 Final Thoughts
Pic courtesy http://www.guide.michelin.com
Dinner at Hoppers is more than just a meal – it’s a sensory journey through spice routes and southern skies. Whether you’re here for the hoppers or the kari, the lassis or the mutton rools, you’re in for a lively, lip-smacking time. So book a table, bring your spice-loving friends, and come hungry.
You won’t regret it.
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